Thursday, 16 February 2017

Basic suspension set up tips

Firstly, know your fork! It is vitally important you know what model you have so you can correctly understand the performance features of it. Please refer to your owners manual or download one via www.marzocchi.com 

When setting up the fork always work in the following order:
1/ Spring rate, this could be via Air pressure or a mechanical spring
2/ Sag
3/ Rebound
4/ Compression 

The following is intended to give you an idea on each function but does not specifically refer to any specific model. 
  
Springs: Coil
The spring rate of a coil spring refers to the amount of force needed to compress the springs in the fork. Marzocchi offers several different spring kits to coordinate rider weight and riding conditions.

Spring Preload
Spring preload can be done with the external adjusters on top of the fork. Preloading the springs will compress them slightly and increase the initial force needed to compress the spring. Marzocchi forks can use the maximum amount of preload from the adjuster and the fork will still get full travel. Spring preload is used to fine-tune the spring rate to adjust for the proper sag measurement. Minimal spring preload is recommended for better performance and longer working life of the springs, so it is better to change to a stiffer spring rate than to add significant preload (10+ turns.)

Springs: Air
Air spring rate is the amount of air pressure that is in the fork. Air pressure can be infinitely adjusted using a shock pump to fit rider preference. Be sure to use a shock pump that can accurately gauge air pressure in the adjustment range.

Sag
Sag refers to how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Marzocchi recommends between 10-20% for XC and up to 35% for DH/ Enduro to provide the best overall ride. The easiest way to measure sag is to put a zip tie around the stanchion and then measure how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Keep in mind that the normal riding position on a DH bike may not be correct on level ground. 

Damping: Rebound
Rebound damping controls the rate in which the fork is able to extend. All of the Marzocchi forks have adjustable rebound damping. Rebound damping should be set fairly fast, but without causing a sudden, harsh force back to the rider. This will allow the fork to comfortably extend to full travel as soon as possible after impact.
TIP: It is a good idea to get a feel for how the different rebound adjustments affect the fork. Try turning the adjuster all the way counter-clockwise to the fastest rebound setting and then quickly compress and release the suspension several times. Next test the fork with the adjuster turned all the way clockwise and then somewhere in between, this will demonstrate the differences between damping settings.

Damping: Compression
Compression damping is the oil flow resistance felt when compressing the fork. Compression damping is categorised in two ways: low speed compression and high-speed compression. Low speed compression refers to when the fork is compressed slowly and gradually, for example during rolling impacts and rounded bumps. High-speed compression refers to the resistance felt during multiple, hard impacts and square-edged bumps. 
It is better to be conservative while setting the compression damping because the spring offers resistance to compression as well. Too much compression damping creates a harsh ride because the suspension cannot compress rapidly enough to absorb large impacts. Compression damping is not a substitute for proper spring rate and should not be adjusted until the fork has the proper spring set-up for the rider.

Testing, testing, testing
Find a quick loop with multiple trail features such as drops, roots and rollers, but it is important that it is repeatable. Repeat the loop and experiment with the settings paying attention to how the bike feel is changing on each loop. Make sure you have a shock pump with you and don't be afraid to change the settings, your bike will feel different on the trail to what it did in the car park.

Trouble shooting

The following chart will help pinpoint any problems that may occur while setting up your Marzocchi suspension fork. Keep in mind that some problems may be due to one or more cause and that setup should be done in the order as it appears in this book.

Marzocchi 053 adjustments

The 053 C2R shock is Marzocchi's flagship Enduro air shock it features high and low speed compression and rebound adjust plus a three way trail selector lever with adjustable gate. Here we show you what each function does.

053 C2R
Downhill setting: no platform, compression working purely on shims
Trail setting: Firmer compression for general riding
Climbing setting: Firm compression for climbing - this mode is adjustable see next.
Adjustable blow-off (gate setting): Wind fully in for maximum and out for minimum.
RED adjuster for rebound adjustment.
High speed compression ORANGE, low speed compression GOLD
The piggy back air valve can only be charged with the factory charging tool and does not need to be adjusted.
re-charging reservoir *not user adjustable* 
Simple set up:

1/ set sag - Enduro bikes 30-35%
2/ set rebound - as fast as possible while still remaining controlled.
3/ Set low speed compression - to dial out any un-wanted low speed movements or for a firmer ride.
4/ Set high speed compression - to make the bike more progressive on big hits.
5/ Gate adjust - this is down to your personal preference.

Find a quick loop with a drop, some roots and some interesting trail features, but it is important that it is repeatable. Repeat the loop and experiment with the settings paying attention to how the bike feel is changing on each loop. Make sure you have a shock pump with you and don't be afraid to change the settings, your bike will feel different on the trail to what it did in the car park.

Note: compression settings will vary depending on bike and suspension curve design. For example some bikes are very efficient peddlers so platform may not be needed at all. Some bikes have very progressive curves, so high speed may be minimal.

Wednesday, 6 July 2016

Marzocchi 350NCR lower leg service

A lower leg service is easy to do and will keep the 350NCR working in top condition.

It is important to remove the air tube on this model for ease of assembly plus the dummy rod will require greasing.

1/ Remove air valve cover and expel air from the fork
2/ Using a 27mm socket remove the air plug and pull out the air tube


3/ Using a 1.5mm hex key remove the rebound adjuster
4/ Using a 12mm socket remover the damper leg foot nut
5/ Using a 5mm hex key remove the air side foot nut
6/ Separate the CSU form the lowers
7/ Clean the lower leg and re-grease the seals
8/ Turn the CSU upside down and remove the cir-clip that retains the rod on the air side


9/ Remove rod and clean
10/ Re-grease the rod and replace it in to the stanchion


11/ Re-fit the retaining cir-clip and test the rod to make sure the cir-clip is correctly seated
12/ Carefully re-fit the CSU in to the lowers making sure you don’t snag the oil seals
13/ Using a 5mm hex key re-fit air side foot nut and torque to 11NM


14/ Invert the fork
15/ Grease the air tube
16/ Pour 15cc of SAE 7.5 oil inside the air tube


17/ Re-fit the air tube


18/ Tighten air plug to 11NM
19/ Using a syringe squirt 15cc of SAE 7.5w oil in to the DBC leg via the foot nut hole
20/ Using a 12mm socket re-fit the DBC foot nut and torque to 11NM
21/ Using a 1.5mm hex key re-fit the rebound adjuster

22/ Inflate to desired pressure




Thursday, 18 February 2016

Service guide: TST5 cartridge (with bladder)

Service for the TST 5 cartridge with bladder

General Tools
2.5mm hex wrench
10mm spanner
O-ring for trapping oil in the bladder.
Bleeding Instructions
1/ Remove the cartridge from fork
2/ Remove the TST adjuster using a 2.5mm hex wrench
3/ Remove cir-clip
4/ **** Using a 10mm spanner remove compression valve assembly (42). Use a rotating motion so not to damage the O rings. Alternate version uses a 23mm spanner, see bellow
5/ Pour our waste oil and clean and inspect all components
6/ Re-fill the cartridge using SAE 7.5w oil - cycling the damper rod to expel the air
7/ Fill to the very top and re-install the compression valve using a rotating motion, again not to damage the o-rings.
8a/ For models with an 8mm damper shaft
Compress the damper rod so that the exposed rod measures 160mm to the red nut
8b/ For models with an 10mm damper shaft (Marathon Race)
Compress the damper rod so that the exposed rod measures 80mm to the red nut
9/ Using an O-ring roughly the size of the damper, slide down from the top of the cartridge to   halfway down the bladder so the oil is trapped in the bladder bellow the O-ring.
10/ Using a 10mm spanner remove compression valve assembly. Use a rotating motion so not to damage the O rings
11/ Extend the lower damper rod fully
12/ Top up the cartridge using SAE 7.5w oil
13/ Re-install the compression valve using a rotating motion
14/ Remove the bleeding O-ring
15/ Test - make sure there is a film of oil under the bladder to ensure lock-out


**** NOTE: There are two types of TST5 cartridge tops, please take note to which one you have.

Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Travel change for the 350 NCR (CR) series.

Travel change for the 350 NCR (CR) series.

We categorize procedure as advanced, only undertake this if you are a competent mechanic with access to the correct tools and working environment. If you are in any doubt please ask a professional to perform this process for you.

1/ Remove air-valve dust cap and let the air out of the fork.
2/ Using a 27mm socket, un-screw the air plug and then completely remove the plug and air tube from the station.
3/ Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the rebound adjuster
4/ Using a 5mm hex key, remove the RH foot nut
5/ Using a 12mm socket, remove the LH foot nut
6/ Separate the upper assembly from the lowers
7/ Remove the dust seal external springs and remove the dust seals. NOTE: Removing the dust seals makes refitting the upper assembly easier.
8/ Once the dust seals have been remove re-fit the external springs (removing the springs prevents damage to the seal).
9/ Using cir-clip pliers remove the cir-clip from the base of the air leg and remove rod assembly.
10/ Remove the disc from the base of the leg, this is a tight fit and may require tapping off with a small hammer.
11/ Remove negative spring.
12/ Install travel spacer and push until you hear an audible click.
13/ Re-install the negative spring and push until you hear an audible click.
14/ Re-install the disc to the bottom of the rod, again this may need tapping down with a small hammer.
15/ Re-install the rod in to the base of the stanchion and re-install the cir-clip. NOTE: Check the cir-clip seating and make sure it’s fully in its groove.
16/ Install the dust seals on to the stanchion and re-fit the upper assembly. BE CAREFUL! Make sure the stanchions do not tear the oil seals as the stanchions pass through them.
17/ Re-fit both foot nuts and torque to 10NM + or – 1NM.
18/ Re-fit the rebound adjuster and secure using the 1.5mm hex key.
19/ Press the dust seals back in to the lower legs.
20/ Invert the air tube and place 25ml of 7.5w oil inside.
21/ Invert the fork and re-install the air tube. NOTE: You will need to tap the air tube in with your hand to get it past the piston head on the rod assembly, as the tube goes in the pressure inside it will increase so make sure you expel the air to make installing easier.
22/ Using the 27mm socket re-fit the air plug and torque to 20NM + or – 1NM
23/ Re-inflate to your desired pressure
24/ Check travel.

Part numbers for travel change spacers:

536181 = 20mm spacer
536216 = 10mm spacer

CR model: the procedure is pretty much the same except that the air tube in the CR is not removable.


350R internal for reference only


Wednesday, 15 April 2015

Understanding the 380 C2R2

Set up: Understanding the Marzocchi 380 C2R2 Ti 2014 & 2015 380 C2R2 Ti and steel spring.



The 380 has a lot of adjustments, here is a guide to what everything does. Every adjustment is relative to the spring rate, so get the spring correct and work from here.

Spring options

Titanium
Soft k=4.4 " 5141956 - RED
Medium k=5,5" 5141918 (standard spring in 2014 forks) - BLUE
Hard k=6.5" 5141957 (standard spring in 2015 forks) - GREEN
X Hard k=7.7" 5141958/P - GREY

Steel
Soft k=4.4 " 5141959 - BROWN
Medium k=5,4" 5141923 - RED
Hard k=6.5" 5141960 (standard spring in 2015 forks) - GREEN
X hard k=7.7" 5141961 - GREY

Note: The stock spring changed between 2014 and 2015 due to the fork feeling too soft as the fork generates far less fiction compared to the 888 model. These springs are also used in the 888.

Pre-load adjuster
Spring Pre-load
Spring pre-load can be done with the external RH adjuster on top of the fork. Pre-loading the spring will compress them slightly and increase the initial force needed to compress the spring. Marzocchi forks can use the maximum amount of pre-load from the adjuster and the fork will still get full travel. Spring pre-load is used to fine-tune the spring rate to adjust for the proper sag measurement. Minimal spring pre-load is recommended for better performance and longer working life of the springs, so it is better to change to a stiffer spring rate than to add significant pre-load (10+ turns.)
Sag refers to how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Marzocchi recommends 20-30% of DH travel in sag to provide the best overall ride. The easiest way to measure sag is to put a zip tie around the stanchion and then measure how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Keep in mind that the normal riding position on a DH bike may not be correct on level ground.

Low speed rebound (RED) + High speed rebound (SLIVER)

Rebound Damping
Rebound damping controls the rate in which the fork is able to extend. All Marzocchi forks have adjustable rebound damping. Rebound damping should be set fairly fast, but without causing a sudden, harsh force back to the rider. This will allow the fork to comfortably extend to full travel as soon as possible after impact.
The 380's damping adjuster's are located at the base of the right hand leg, with low speed adjustment in RED and high speed adjustment in SILVER.
Low speed adjustment is for low velocity movements with high speed for high velocity movements. Turning the adjuster's clockwise will slow the rebound speed and therefore turning the adjuster's counter-clockwise will speed up rebound.
It is a good idea to get a feel for how the different rebound adjustments affect the fork. Try turning the adjuster all the way counter-clockwise to the fastest rebound setting and then quickly compress and release the suspension several times. Next test the fork with the adjuster turned all the way clockwise and then somewhere in between. This will demonstrate the differences between damping settings.


Low speed compression (GOLD) + High speed compression (ORANGE)
Compression Damping
Compression damping is the oil flow resistance felt when compressing the fork. Compression damping is categorized in two ways: low speed compression and high-speed compression. Low speed compression refers to when the fork is compressed slowly and gradually, for example during rolling impacts and rounded bumps. High-speed compression refers to the resistance felt during multiple, hard impacts and square-edged bumps.Too much compression damping creates a harsh ride because the suspension cannot compress rapidly enough to absorb large impacts. Compression damping is not a substitute for proper spring rate and should not be adjusted until the fork has the proper spring set-up for the rider.
The 380 features a 3 stage compression circuit (all shims) with adjustable high and low speed damping with the 3rd stage (MID) controlled and adjustable via a shim change (never needed). The MID stage is specifically set for smoothing the transition between high and low stages.
The compression adjuster's on the 380 is located at the top of the RH leg, with low speed adjustment in GOLD and high speed adjustment in ORANGE. Low speed adjustment is for low velocity movements and is useful to dial our brake dive with high speed for high velocity movements and useful for making the fork more progressive. Turning the adjuster's clockwise will slow the compression speed (firmer) and therefore turning the adjuster's counter-clockwise will speed up compression (softer).



DBC Damping
The semi-open bath cartridge combines the damping feeling and the reliability of the open bath cartridge with the lightweight of a closed cartridge.
A compensation port releases any excess oil out of the damper into the lower leg keeping the bushings and wipers lubricated. As soon as the oil level in the cartridge decreases, oil volume is instantly restored by bringing the previously expelled oil back inside. The DBC cartridge use less oil than the full open bath design, thus saving weight and because the cartridge is also open it can’t fail like a closed damper.
A unique feature of the 380's DBC cartridge is that the complete compression module can be removed from the damper (and fork) without dismantling the fork front he bike.

Torque Settings (NM)
Bottom crown fixing screws 6±1
Fork leg top caps 20±1
Pumping element locking bottom nuts 10±1
Pumping element/cartridge bottom nuts 10±1
Rebound adjustment knob fixing screws 2±0.5
Top crown fixing screws 6±1
Wheel axle Allen screws 6±1
Wheel axle screws 15±1

Spares
8501682/P: 20mm Taperwall axle
8507017/P: Axle pinch bolt screws (titanium) (11pcs)
7051315FB/P: Lower crown with tapered steerer, flat black
7051316FB/P: Lower crown with 1" 1/8 steerer, flat black
501641FB/P: Upper crown, flat black
8501760/P: 38mm SKF Seal Kit
507963GD/P: 38mm Espresso Stanchion (pair) 

NOTE: This page will be updated